PIECE OF CLOTHING AND PROCEDURE FOR ITS PRODUCTION.

PATENTANSPR¢ÕCHE Ith piece of clothing in each case by two front parts and this interconnecting dorsalen portion, whereby each front part possesses a interiorsewn front trailing edge and by a side seam is connected with the dorsalen portion, thereby marked that each front part (601,602) from two is practically formed equal large Colonel off situations, of the interiorsewn front trailing edge (61 I, 610) of the front part (601,602) up to the appropriate side seam (661,662) it extends and to one essentially from the respective front trailing edge (611,610) up to the appropriate side seam (661,662) extending flexible adhäsiven compound layer united sind.

2. Piece of clothing after patent claim 1, by the fact characterized that at the boundary surface of the Oberstoffiagen in a multiplicity from on an at least outweighing part of the boundary surface distributed points more flexible polymer adhesive sticks the two Oberstoffiagen together (11, 12) of each front part with one with one another practically evenly sind.

3. Oberbekleidnngsstück after patent claim 1 or 2, by the fact characterized that in each case the side seams (661,662) are designed as interiorsewn edges (38) and in each case a side edge part essentially from of dorsalen part (36), existing individual Colonel off situation, as central position between turned edge parts of the two Oberstoffiagen (3 I, 32) of each front part enthalten.

4. Oberbekleidnngsstück after one of the patent claims 1-3, thereby gekennzcichnet that the dorsale portion essentially from connected oblong segments (431,432), which by the lower edge seam of the piece of clothing upward extends and side parts (603, 604) is compound up, itself in each case of the side seam (661,662) of the appropriate front part (601,602) to the back of the piece of clothing erstrecken.

Piece of clothing after patent claim I, by the fact characterized that the compound layer (10) a sticking situation (of 17) with a thickness from 10 to 250 micrometers contains, which is formed for at least 5 g thermoplastic adhesives per m2 from at least five Klebpnnkten per cm2 and contains, around the front parts (601,602) formedness too verleihen.

6. Piece of clothing after one of the patent claims 1-5, by the fact characterized that practically the front parts (601,602) and preferably also the side parts (603, 604) it ungefüttert sind.

7. Piece of clothing after one of the patent claims 1-6, by the fact characterized that the Verbnndschicht freely of form retaining inserts ist.

8. Procedure for the production of a Oberbekleidungsstfickes after patent claim 1 by sewing of two front parts (601,602), two sleeves (65) and characterized to several Segmeuten existing dorsalen connecting portion, by (A) education of two separated Stoffanordnnngen, from which each of three lying on top of each other oblong upperupper and the lower situation with thermoplastic adhesive in a predominant part of the boundary surface range between these situations and a interiorsewn edge edge as well as a einschichtigen part of the middle situation consists at least and laterally by the two-layered part abragende einschichtige part is connected to which with this in a innenvemähten edge of the two-layered part, and the thermoplastic adhesive within the boundary surface range each turned Anordnnng by warmth and pressure activate (e) for lo obtaining a sticking group of the two-layered Teile.

9. Procedure after patent claim 8, by the fact characterized that the thermoplastic adhesive in step to a multiplicity of particulars, distributed (B) in a sample practically evenly points on the material surface applied wird.

I0. Marked procedure after patent claim 9, by it that the thermoplastic adhesive in a quantity of at least 5 g per m2 and in a distribution of at least points of sticking per cm2 is laid on, around the front parts formedness too verleihen.

2s the invention concerns a piece of clothing, in particular a jacket, two front parts or breast parts and this connecting, usually to several segments, e.g.

two side parts and one or more backs, possesses compound dorsale portion, whereby each front part has ao a interiorsewn front trailing edge and connected by a side seam (so-called front side seam) with the dorsalen portion, e.g. their side parts, ist.

Pieces of clothing of this kind, e.g. Jackets, coats and similar Kleidtmgen carried on the torso, possess usually in addition two sleeves and/or arm holes, a collar or a collar beginning, bags and VorderteilverschIfisse, e.g. buttons and/or button holes or other Verschlüsse.

The invention however particularly refers to the structure of the Vorderteile.

As in the Konfektionstechnik admits, the structure of the front parts of such pieces of clothing, in particular jackets, Jackets and such a thing, important for the appearance, is the fit and the carrying comfort. The front parts of usual jackets or coats are developed from there comparatively complicated and/or connected with substantial Schneidereiaufwand and possess several situations and/or form-giving inserts between the outer layer (Colonel off) and the interior layer (fodder). Since both the form and the exact local position of such reinforcement contribute substantially to the quality of Oberbekleizo pieces of dung, one particularly needs much fate and work time for the production of the front parts, i.e. the production of the front parts causes a main cost factor with the production of jackets and similar Oberbekleidungsstücken.

pieces of material as upper situation, middle situation and lower situation exists, and a first edge range, in which the middle situation lies between the upper and the lower situation, as well as a second edge range possesses, in which the upper situation is directly on the lower situation, whereby the upper and the lower situation are a situation of the front part and the middle layer a segment of the dorsalen connecting portion in each case; (B) Apply a flexible polymere thermoplastic adhesive on at least one surface of each arrangement; (C) Sew a predominant part of the edge edge range of each arrangement; (D) Turns of each arrangement by a not sewn edge edge range for the formation of two turned arrangements, of which everyone is from a two-layered part from the around the Nähereiaufwand with the production of such front parts to reduce, the use of with thermoplastisehem material coated and/or inserts occupied usually, and it are for this different Kleboder of detention materials bzw.

thus admits coated reinforcement inserts. To it the latent or fusionsticking bonding agents as well as particularly manufactured gewobene or fleece-like Werkstoffc, those belong on a side or on both sides to sticking together bzw.

Merge by means of a coating on or by use of stickable and/or fusionable filaments or yarns in these materials are qualified. Since the consumer normally prefers in visible way a sewn piece of clothing, are usually only for the attachment of layer-like reinforcement at pre-determined parts of the Iunenseite the front part of forming upper material used so far in the Oberbekleidungskonfektion used textile sticking procedure worden.

Like that, whose front parts consist of two Stoffiagen, of them practically concisely cut edge ranges with an band-shaped insert to an edge bemäht sind.

e.g. into the US-PS a Oberbeldeidungsstück is descriptive 2,275,090 The inserted insert volume is provided in one aüsserhalb the seam which is appropriate range with adhesive, in order with this sticking surface after turning on a further EinlO positionbound on one side to be stuck together. After this patent specification the inserted edge range of the stickable volume must be freely by adhesive, thus the seam softly and flexibly bleibt.

A similar method is descriptive in the DE-PS 1,460,095. Within the through-sewn edge range of a piece of clothing an additional thread-free connection is formed with the help of a layer from adhesive or weldable plastic, for example inserted, which is then connected point for point by local Druckund/or temp advice pure effect with the lying close edge material by a row of point of sticking. Further subsequent sticking together is in the edge range of sewn fabric courses, which are coated with thermoplastic material, from the GB-PS 977,367 for the production of folded slab roofs of motor vehicles bekannt.

On the other hand it is for a long time well-known e.g. from the US-PS 2,083,199 and 2,264,224 in the production of laundry articles, e.g. for shirts, halfrigid collar, Manschettenund Zierfaltenpartien, which must be normally strengthened, by turn-lateral sewing of two or more with adhesive provided material parts, turns and sticking the turned Stoffiagen together under pressure and warmth herzustellen.

In the US-PS 2,083,199 it is indicated furthermore for the fact that this procedure is applicable also for suits from lines, cotton and easy Wollgewebe, in order to reinforce the Kragenoder written undertaking portions in the same way like shirt collars and/or for raincoat collars, in order to make these nahtblasenfest (pükkerresistant) wcnn the article of clothing wet wird.

A certain reinforcement Kragenund written undertaking portions of jackets can be wishable with light suits, in order to equip these portions knitterfest and/or nahtblasenfest, but would be very unfavorable such Versteifüngen in the Brüstbereich of jacket front parts. For reasons the carrying comfort these ranges do not have to be reinforced in the sense one for example with strength attainable equipment trained relatively softly and/or schmiegsam and anyhow. A rigid or halfrigid equipment actually causes a practically complete loss of the draping ability of clothing materials, and one can assume that earlier attempts or spekalative proposals failed zar use of sticking methods for wide reinforcement of pieces of clothing or for the production of on both sides portable, i.e. reversible, pieces of clothing because of thereby are connected, practically complete loss of the draping ability. A quantitative evaluation of the difference between a halfrigid and a dmpierfähig structured material bonding material becomes further down erläutert.

With attempts of the patent owner with so-called Doubleface materials, i.e. very expensive doublepositionColonel-openly, whose are connected both situations by a multiplicity of unsiehtbaren passes and/or threads and which are vendet normally only for one-off production by reversible jackets and/or coats, it became found that a disadvantage of such reversiblcn Obcrbckleidungsstücken, in particular jackets, by an unwanted structuring effect in the unintentionally strengthened, but still drapable back portion is conditioned. On the other hand is surprisingly favourable the Doubleface materials for the front parts 625,107 of a jacket or such attainable Struktürierungseffekt, conventional by use. With the attempt to use and avoid it in the Dorsalbereich this structuring effect for jacket front parts, that only a very laborious and would be necessary time-consuming procedure and very much fate of the cutter, around the jacket front parts of DoublefaceStoffen to make and it showed up with a single fabric ply for the dorsale connection of the front parts too vereinigen.

For this the threads, which the two situations of the Doubleface material connect, would have to be in-folded and sewn at least within the range of the front edge edge to be isolated and whereupon the separate fabric plies to the edge edge; further far the connection of the single fabric ply of the dorsalen portion with the doubling off situation of the front parts must either doubling off as in the edge edge range be isolated or the education of thick seam bulges, e.g. at the front side seam, in purchase be taken. Although from there such a attempt jacket with front parts from two-layered Doubleface material and a dorsalen connecting portion from individual Oberstoffiage would be favourable in structural and aesthetic regard, is for this necessary manufacture expenditure for the Konfektionsindustrie undiskutabel.

For the state of the art is to be still vcrmcrken that admits jackets are, their front parts practically no position reinforcement have and few or are not fed; such Arikel becomes also as “sweater jackets”, “unconstructed” - jackets and such a thing designation and represent an important part of the sport clothing sector. The lappige feature of such jackets is regarded thereby as necessary and/or and such “sweater jackets” is not suitable unavoidably from there not for less informal Anlässe.

Considering the unanimity of the theories of the state of the art concerning the reinforcement effect and Drapierf of higkeitsverlustes developing at the sticking group of two Stoffiagen it was not to be expected that will receive a sufficiently drapable and nevertheless structurally effective jacket front part with sticking compound materials could, completely apart from the problems of the connection of such compound front parts with the dorsalen portion on one commercially bzw.

technically justifiable way. Surprisingly however with further attempts it was stated that strnkturell effective and/or structured and nevertheless drapable jacket front parts by Klebbzw. Fusion methods are available and that such front parts give a jacket an obliging/pleasing fassoniertes appearance manufactured thereby, however the high carrying comfort of sweater jackets bieten.

Task of the invention is it to indicate a piece of clothing that the advantages mentioned ermöglicht.

This task is solved according to invention by an article of clothing, that the characteristics specified in patent claim 1 besitzt.

Erfindüngsgemässe Oberbekleidnngsstücke, in particular in the form of jackets, a crmöglichen favourable compromise of comfort and formedness in particular by the fact that the front part compound layer with the flexibility in the sense of draping ability, necessary for carrying comfort, and structural effect in the sense of formedness will provide kann.

Preferably the dorsale portion consists the back and/or its segments and normally also the side parts from individual Colonel off situation of a single fabric ply, i.e. is at least essentially formed. The Oberbekleidungsstñck is provided usually with one collar and two sleeves and preferably possesses a Revers.<br belonging to the front parts/> Favourable way are adhäsiv the two Colonel off situations by a normally flexible polymer, which is practically evenly between the Stoffiagen 625,107 of the group distributed in a multiplicity of points, i.e. by sticking together or merging, connected. Such a punkfförmige distribution Haftbzw. Sticking means - in the following Adhäsivmittel mentioned - it is actually well-known from the US-PS specified above 2,264,224 for the production of halfrigid shirt collars as alternative to a laminar which is connected Adhäsivmittel from which it would be to be closed that such a intermittent punkfförmige distribution of the Adhäsivmittels reinforces a group likewise like a connected layer. It however found that by a punctiform distribution of the Adhäsivmittels an unwanted reinforcement of the group can be better avoided and a drapable structured, practically “not-tent-forming” group of the Stoffiagen offers, i.e. would e.g. measure one piece of clothing, the range 61 in Fig. 6 represented jacket 60. In accordance with Fig. lA the two Oberstoffiagen I 1, are put 12 first turn-laterally one on the other i.e. so that their respective exteriors 115, 125 touch themselves”, and if necessary to the education cut from equivalent edges 112, 122. A very exact Ubereinstimmung of the edges is however not critical. Then the edge edge seam 16 available along the dash-dotted line 125 by sewing in usual way is formed. One lo practically parallel guidance of the seam 16 to the edges 112, 122 is preferred, but the seam level represented by the cord-dotted line 151 must stand not perpendicularly to the situations of 11, 12, but can with to each other parallel levels of the two Stoffiagen an angle of less than such, for that the jacket front parts sufficiently drapable for 5 90° einschliessen.

the carrying comfort of a jacket manufactured thereby makes and for this however nevertheless sufficient structure and/or Fasson verleiht.

The dorsale part has against it preferably one essentially “tent screen end” draping ability; the designation “in an educated manner” is further down more detailed erläutert.

In accordance with a preferential execution form of the invention the piece of clothing is designed as jacket and/or written undertaking jacket according to kind of sweater jackets in the sense the fact that the jacket front parts do not have structural inserts and from there the high carrying comfort of sweater jackets to possess, however nevertheless the structured or fassonierte feature has, which is to be attributed to the surprising effect of the adhäsiven doubling off group of the Jaekenvorderteile. In addition, the jacket front parts are not fed thereby in the bliehen sense, have on the inside an elegant Aussehen.

Furthermore the invention offers an improved procedure with the production of pieces of clothing after the invention with the Merkmalen.<br indicated in patent claim 8/> The invention is for example described on the basis the designs. Show:

Fig. lA, lB, IC a sehematische perspektivisehe representation of two separated fabric plies in the different stages of the formation of the group within the range of the interiorsewn front trailing edge of the side parts, Fig. 2A, 2B a schematic representation of two connected with one another fabric plies before and after the education of the group, Fig. 3A, 3B a sehematische perspektivisehe representation of the formation of the two-position group of the front parts as well as the single situation of the part of the dorsalen connection, Fig bordering on the front part. 4, 5 schematic perspektivisehe representations of examples of the 13berganges von Verbunddoppellagen within the front part range in einschichtigc situations within the range of the dorsalen portion, Fig. 6 a halfschematic plan view on the front of a jacket according to invention, Fig. plan view made 7 smaller a halfschematic, something on in Fig. 6 represented jacket after opening unfold the front parts, Fig. 8 a halfschematic representation of the increased plan view on a material surface also on it in laminar point distribution for the education of the Verbnndlage aufgebraehtem Adhäsivmittel and Fig. 9A, 9B, 9C the halfschematic perspective representation of the basic forms of samples of a material, those in a test for the determination of the Drapierfåhigkeit of flexible material layers receive werden.

The partly cut, perspectively in the Fig. 1-3 represented fabric plies are exaggerated thickly drawn for better representation. The Fig describes. lA, lB, 1C the main steps with the education of the two-layered material compound layer close of the front trailing edge one erfindungsgeMindestens one of the material backs or - surfaces 1 10, 120, those in the arrangement of Fig. lA outside are appropriate, with a layer of a Adhäsivmittels for textiles, preferably for a latent adhesive, one provides. By turning the situations of 11, 12, its beginning in Fig. lA is represented, becomes in Fig. 1C represented interiorsewn edge in an educated manner. The thickness of the developing seam bulge is exaggerated thickly drawn. Now the backs become 110, 120 of the situations of 11, 12 by the Adhäsivbzw. Klebsehicht 17 connected, whose thickness likewise exaggerated and whose preferential structure is not-represented, around a Adhäsivverbund 10, i.e. Klebbzw. Fusion sticking group to form e.g. by activating previous on at least one of the surfaces 1 10, 120 the Stoffiagen 1 I, 12 of applied latent adhesive bzw.

Thermoplastic adhesive, approximately by thermal effect (e.g.

100-170 °C), by solvents or a similar activating agent, usually under a pressure of the kind one obtains, as it in usual ironing machines, e.g. 10-100 g/cm2. The special conditions of activation hang naturally something of the type of the used material and the Adhäsivmittels ab.

Preferably the detention layer 17 is not a laminar connected layer, but consists of a multiplicity of points or small spots, which are distributed practically evenly, e.g. with 5-30 or more points per cm2, on the boundary surface between the Stoffiagen. The number of the points per unit area, the sample of the point distribution and the size of the points know e.g. 5-30 g/m2, which Anftragmethode and the surface texture of the fabric plies at the boundary surface ₜ 5 of the group are affected by the quantity of the applied bonding agent. The Dickc dcr Haflschicht 17 lies with the preferential intermittent distribution of a point sample usually within the range of millimeter fractions, e.g. 10-250 micrometers, but is excluded neither the use of thicker layers of adhesive 17 nor from strengthening intermediate layers, if thereby the criteria of the draping ability described down are still fulfilled können.

As suggested above, numerous bonding agents on polymer basis or Vorpolymerbasis for textiles (textile adhesives and/or thermoplastic adhesives) are well-known and can for the invention be used, as far as them in the group crwähnten and down more in detail the above described draping ability criteria fulfill. Suitable bonding agents are under other one also such, which can be activated by solvents, as well as such, those reactively (polymerization and/or networking) are and even the so-called Kontaktkleber would actually be brauchbar.

For reasons of the stability generally and the chemical cleaning stability in the special as well as because of the desired draping ability of the group and the production simplification latent Haflmittel and in particular the so-called Sehmelzkleber are preferred or heissiegclfähigen means, which in addition the following criteria fulfill: (A) large stability against halogen hydrocarbons of the kind used for the chemical cleaning, d.h.

practical insolubility and at the most limited source ability of the layer 17 in such chemical cleaning solvents, or however the ability, against such solvents to be made steady (e.g. by networking; (B) Flexibility and preferably Schmiegsamkeit under the Erweilo chung within this range, still substantial for pieces of clothing normal site conditions, e.g. in the temperature range of approximately -20 °C to approximately +50 °C, i.e. no substantial embrittlement. A certain pliancy bzw.

Schmiegsamkeit of the bonding agent in the sense down of the more exactly described criteria carries the gewiinschten draping ability to seigenschaften bei.

Bonding agents, which correspond to this Kdterien, and which production of such means are well-known. Polymere one (Homopolymer or copolymer) on basis of Terephthalat/Isophthalat Copolyestern, Copolyamide and Copolyolefine are to be only called as some examples of the polymere component of the bonding agent. Flexible-flexible thermoplastic and elastomers of polymers become for the bonding agent bevorzugt.

Suitable bonding agents can be used as confused non-woven cloths from latently stickable fibers or filaments and/or as so-called fixing foils, which such fibers or a multiplicity of laminar distributed points of a latent 2s of adhesive, i.e. an intermittent layer of adhesive, on an inert carrier sheet to exhibit, in this form from the material applied and with this provisionally connected (“prefixes”) become. The carrier sheet, e.g. made of paper or a relatively heatproof polymer layer, such a fixing foil is put for this with the Klebstellen turned to the desired connection surface of the material on these; then heat and pressure, e.g. through to handles, are brought on the back of the carrier to the effect, around for example punktformig distributed bonding agent of the carrier sheet on the material too übertragen.

As actually admits is the case for this sticking technology, the carrier sheet is with a parting agent, e.g. silicone, provided, around the transmission of the sticking means of the carrier on the material without substantial change of the sticking central distribution too erzielen.

Instead of laying the surface of point of sticking on, e.g. in form of a multiplicity of fine droplets, on the carrier sheet the bonding agent can be laid on also directly on one or both material surfaces within the compound range, e.g. as a sticking central suspension or by Aufsprühen and/or spraying a firm powdered means on with following thermal melting on. Generally the use of transmission sheets offers better control and from there is preferred. For example melted droplets can be deposited in the desired distribution on the carrier sheet pre-treated with parting agent, whereby form and thickness of the matured droplets can be steered, e.g. by rollers or over the controlling of the viscosity of the Schmelze.

when using preferential bonding agents on basis by PP and/or Copolyamid Essentially round and/or circular Haftmittelpünktchen with thicknesses within the range of 10-100 micrometers and diameters of approximately 0.5-1.5 mm in form of a sample of practically evenly Pünktchen from each other beabstandeten (distances between the neighbouring Pünktchen of for instance 0,5-I, 5 mm) are for many purposes of the invention geeignet.

With the choice of the bonding agent the chemical and physical characteristics of the fabric plies are to consider e.g. with materials with thermoplastic synthetic fibers, as well as the structure of the materials (e.g. its Weboder effect structure) as well as the presence of textile equipment and/or Appreturen and similar means, which dic Haftungseigcnschaíten of the material surfaces can impair, in actually for the textile sticking 625,107 well-known way. Generally the fabric plies I I, 12 should with the activation of a latent bonding agent moistened by this werden.

Suitable materials for the fabric plies 1 I, 12 of the group 10 can gewobenen to all types of schichtförmig connected textiles inclusively of, worked or fleece-like materials from natural, halfsynthetic or full-synthetic fibers, yarns, filaments and such a thing the article assigned kind generally fassonierter in Kleidungsund in particular clothing industry normally for production more sewn and selected werden.

Also textile processable imitation leather products with more closed or more porously and if necessary fibrillierter surface, e.g. wild-leather-like textiles and other “poromere” composite layers for clothing purposes, are geeignet.

In accordance with a preferential execution form both layers I1, 12 of the compound material I0 von Fig exist. 1C bzw.

the appropriate situations of 2 I, 22 of the group 20 of Fig. 2B as well as the situations of 31, 32 of the group 30 of Fig. 3B from Colonel off material, i.e. textile fiber layers and/or fabrics, Tuchen and materials of the kind with typical weights within the range of 100-900 g/m2, preferably within the range of 120-350 g/m2 and the mechanical properties, necessary specified above, for clothing purposes. Fabrics out come-decay caper yarns, e.g. from wool, silk, cotton, Synthetika or blended yarns (natural fiber/natural fiber or natural fiber/synthetic fiber) as upper materials usually of the kind used for clothing become for both fabric plies of the sticking bonding material for the front parts of pieces of clothing according to invention bevorzugt.

The “width” of the group 10 of Fig is general. 10, i.e. the dimension B, around a multiple more largely than the “width” A of the edge edge 14, i.e. the width in the Fig. IC, 2B and 3B exaggerated thickly drawn seam bulge, which is formed by the back-folded edge ranges of the fabric plies 11, I2. Some or all material boundary surfaces in the bulge I4 can be adhäsiv bound, if the bonding agent before turning the situations within the appropriate ranges were applied. With a conventional jacket the interiorsewn front edge edge in the typical case has a width of 4-8 mm, and also with a jacket according to invention the dimension A can lie in this range or over it, if the dimension B around a multiple more largely ist.

Favourably structuring effects were already observed up with B-dimensions of only 2 cm and up to 50 cm. In addition, the “length” of the group, i.e. its dimension parallel to the edge I4, is generally equal the length of the edge, can be somewhat smaller or larger than these. The widths of the back-folded parts of the situations of 11, I2 must be not alike, and which can cover a part the other one. An essentially symmetrical structure of the edge 14 becomes however usually bevorzugt.

The Fig. 2A, 2B show that the two situations can be 21, 22 of the sticking group 20 part of only one piece of material, which is zurüekgefaltet with 23 like that on itself that the material backs I I5, I25 lie outside (Fig. 2A). Generally the sticking group 20 (Fig extends. 2B) thereby practically over the entire surface between the two innenveruähten edges 24, 28, of which everyone can form the front trailing edge of a front part of a piece of clothing according to invention, while the other edge is connected with the dorsalen connecting portion and/or becomes, preferably in the Fig. 3A, 3B generally described way and in form of an at least on one side covered Naht.

With the front part of a jacket or such a thing according to invention extend the seams and/or edges 24, 28 of 625,107 lower Sauro upward against the shoulder portions. The seams 24, 28 do not have parallel to each other run (as simplifies in the Fig. 1-3 represented) and will under normal conditions not do this; while the front edge edge is usually formed by a practically straight seam, the side seam at least bereiehsweise is curved and/or bent, as in Fig. to recognize 7. As consequence itself the width dimension B (Fig can. 1C) of the group with a jacket front part between the front edge edge (24 or 28) and the front side seam (28 or 24) over l0 the length of the group, bordering on the seams, change, solite however generally a Mindestbreite B exhibit, which is at least five times larger than A. Range way at the boundary surface of the Stoffiagen connected parts know e.g. for the education by bags intended sein.

From the Fig. furthermore 2A, 2B is to be recognized that one interiorsewn edge with adjacent or these for innenscitig not only by sewing and turning from lying cut edges 211, 221, but also by Vemähen of the layers 21, 22 close of the fold 23 and parallel too these as well as the following turning can be formed including group. Such interiorsewn edges close of a fold 23 or close of lips 212, 221 of the superimposed situations can extend practically around the entire range of the fabric ply arrangement, so long only a unvernähter boundary region sufficient for turning the arrangement verbleibt.

To the education of the compound thing 20 of Fig. 2B become the fabric plies 21, 22 as in Fig. 2A shown and in senkrechten or diagonally-lying seam levels 251.253 at the seam lines 252, 254 more míteinander sews. As describes above, at least one, initially outside lying surface 215, is provided 225 before or after the sewing with bonding agent; after turning the sewn arrangement of Fig. 2A come the exteriors originally on the inside 210 to be appropriate for 220 outward and the group 20 again preferably results from the bonding agent layer 27 at the closed-up material surfaces 215, 225, with point-wise surface distribution of the bonding agent, as above, e.g. by Wärmeund printing effect. The turned fold 23 of the group 20 is preferably adhäsiv at the predominant part of the boundary surface range gebunden.

The Fig. 3A, 3B describe a preferential Ausfiihrnngsbeispiel for the production of front parts from two-position material group 30 together with a einlagigen part 36 for a segment of the dorsalen portion. For this three fabric plies 31, 32, 35 are operated, i.e. superimposed with the insides of the situations of 31, outward being appropriate for 32, and vemäht all three layers along the seam line 354. Again the seam level 353 can run thereby perpendicularly or diagonally. Along the Nahflinie 352 however only the two änsseren fabric plies 31, 32 are with one another sewn. As mentions above, bonding agent before or after the sewing, in punkfförmiger distribution, becomes likewise preferably on at least one exterior surface on (603.604, Fig. 6), i.e. the oblong segments dorsalcn of the connecting portion, cut its, itself normally of the jacket seam the 600, 607 (Fig. 6) upward up to the lower part of the sleeve seam 651 erstrecken.

Again is the width dimension (B von Fig. 1C) of the group 30 by the distance between the Nahtwulstcn 34, 38 and/or their seams 36, 39 certainly and also here will essentially run the trailing edge 34 at the front edge of jacket usually practically straight, while the connecting side seam 39 depending upon cut of the jacket 60 curved bzw.

is bent run can and usually shorter than the edge edge 34.

The width of the abragenden single fabric ply 36 must with in Fig. 3A represented arrangement by no means more narrowly its than the distance between the Nahflinien the 352, 354. The fabric ply 35 into the seam line 352 may not extend, but a middle Stoffiage 35 with larger width, than in Fig. 3A represented, can be znrückgefaltet between the situations of 31, 32 on itself, around unintentional inserting into the seam 36 too vermeiden.

An effective and nevertheless simply to screen end connection of the compound front parts of a piece of clothing according to invention with a einlagigen dorsalen Verbin2s dung portion is important in particular, because one of the goals of the invention exists in the utilization of the struktuñerenden effect of two-layered compound material for the front parts when simultaneous avoidance this effect in the dorsalen portion. Examples of the transition of side parts from Doppelstoffverbnnd to a einlagige dorsale connecting portion are schematic in the Fig. 4 and 5 represented. In accordance with Fig. 4 has the two in each case from two Oberstoffiagen of 411, 412 and/or 421.422 formed front parts 41, 42 with sticking group at the boundary surfaces 417, 412 in each case a front trailing edge sewn inside 412, 424 and is connected at the Seitenoder tie-in welds 418, 428 by a einlagige dorsale portion consisting of several segments. For simplified representation only two segments of the dorsalen portion are drawn. In actually the way usual for jackets and similar pieces of clothing the dorsale connecting portion between the front parts can possess 41, 42 three, four or more oblong segments, e.g. two side parts and two backs, those in each case by preferably covered longitudinal welds connected with one another sind.

verÆhiedene modifications of the transition of the multiple situations of the front parts are possible according to invention to the segmented single situations of the dorsalen portion. Two examples of such transitions are in Fig. 5 schematically represented. One or both front parts can the structure of the compound front part 51 have, i.e. a interiorsewn front trailing edge 510 and a side seam 519 to possess in each case. There one of the Colonel off situations of 511, 512 of the two-layered sticking group bound at the boundary surface 517 itself substantially over dcn compound range outside extended, can this practicing first order of Fig. 3A laid on. The edge of the situation of 35 close 55 hende einlagige material part a segment of the dorsalen portion of pictures seam line 354 can be sewn thereby something from the pile in accordance with that and with further segments. If itself a Fig. 3A stand out. Then the sewn pile is turned by a relative to small not sewn boundary region and whereupon the bonding agent the education of the adhäsiven material group 30 of Fig. 3B as descriptive activates above. Substantial it is here that 36 by the seam 39 referred the single situation into innenvernähtc the edge 38 of the group 30 ist.

This material single situation of 36 stands out extended to the group 30 and can with advantage for the transition of the two-layered only narrow part of the single situation beyond the compound range, as by the example of the compound front part 53 shown, can this abragende edge 532 by a double folding seam 534 along the seam line 529 with the Einzelstoffiage of the adjacent segment of the dorsalen portion connected werden.

Since the piece of clothing according to invention in accordance with a preferential execution form one practically ungefütVerbund the front parts of a jacket or 65 according to invention terte (i.e. of usual fodder material free) front Indian-same into the einlagige dorsale connecting portion zwinenseite and an at the most slightly fed dorsale the Par front parts to be used. For example tie possesses, becomes the use of double folding seams similarly can the abragende single position part 36 as jacket side part of the seam 534 of Fig. 5 also or two seam lines 529 for the longitudinal connections of segments of the dorsalen portion frequently with one another bevorzugt.

Fig. a front view of a jacket according to invention 60, their front parts 601.602 at the front side seams 661.662 with the side parts 603.604 of the dorsalen connecting portion e.g. shows 6 (segments in accordance with Fig. 7) are connected. The bags 640, 641, 642 can as represented in at s, I usual way on the front parts sewn on or between the bond layers of the front parts in an educated manner sein.

The irregularly bordered parts of 61, 63 serve only the transfer: If the range 61 is cut perpendicularly to the indication level in horizontal level, it has in Fig. 1C (front trailing edge 14), Fig. 2B (front trailing edge 24 or 28) or Fig. 3B (front trailing edge 34) schematically represented structure. In Fig. 6 of the front part 602 is front trailing edge 611 (Fig verdeekte. ) same an in principle Struktur.<br has 7 of the front part 601/> The ranges 63 have preferably in the left-sided half of Fig. in addition, 3B represented structure, can another in Fig. 5 represented types of the transition of the compound range to a Einzelstoffiage entsprechen.

Preferably each front part has 601.602 a written undertaking 673 as integrals a component. The if necessary existing collar 671 can have the compound structure described above, but is this usually not erforderlich.

The Vordcrteile 601.602 is in practice except by the front edge edges 610, 611 and the side seams 661, 662 also by the lower seam seams 600, 607, the Schultemähte 680, 681, the arm plug lap welds 651.652 and if necessary the Krasenstossnähte 672, 674 limited. Breast darts 691.692 can be intended, are not generally however necessary; this is valid also for decorative seams, folds, bag seams or -, button /Knopflochoder zippers and such bibliche modifications including 3s of the number of the button rows fold, and the invention is not on a herons jackets or such a thing beschränkt.

In accordance with a generally preferred execution form of the invention each jacket front part exists those predominantly of two Oberstoffiagen, to drapable structured Klebbzw. Fusion sticking group is united, whereby this Verbundbereieh extends generally practically from the front trailing edge to the side seam. This does not close locally limited interruptions of the Adhäsivverbundes however aus.

As describes above, those can lie width of the compound range and concomitantly the local width of the front parts e.g. between 2 and 50 cm. There itself the distance between the front trailing edge 610 and the side seam 662 of a front part according to invention over its “length” (distance between Sauro 607 and shoulder seam 681) changed, can be significant the computational average value the width B of the compound range, and this is appropriate for 10-25 for most measure sizes preferably within the range of 5-30 cm, in particular cm.

To the explanations concerning the designs it results that the concept according to invention generally does not exclude one from two Stoffiagen of existing group of the front parts that in subranges more than two fabric plies lie one on the other; so for instance if necessary more than zwci superimposed material layers are adhäsiv with one another verbunden.

in the direct range of the front edge edges as well as in the direct range of the front side seams The connecting portion dorsale with pieces of clothing according to invention predominantly of a Einzelstoffiage gebildete' will contain for its part under normal conditions in the seam ranges more than one fabric ply, like this approximately for the seam 534 of Fig. 5.gezeigt is provided, and can in the moving, Schulteroder sleeve range with Futterstoff sein.

625,107 Fig. shows 7 a something made smaller and simplified plan view to the jacket 60 of Fig. 6 after lateral opening unfold of the front parts for the representation of the jacket inside. Material conditions of the dimensions cannot be shown, there each planar graphic representation of the inside of a jacket a distorted rendition bewirkt.

The insides of the front parts 601.602 are ungefüttert in the usual sense and have essentially completely ähnlilo a ches appearance like the front part outer sides, i.e. they show practically going through Colonel off surfaces. The dorsale connecting portion of the front parts is in actually usual way from the two side parts 603, 604 and two backs 71, 72 zusammengesetzt.

A fodder material edition of the dorsalen portion is fakultativ, and Fig. 7 shows a relatively small fodder material range 70, which extends as back shoulder fodder of the collar 671 to the arm holes 653.654. The sleeves can to be fed and it be able (not-represented) shoulder pads cingezo set to become. The seams 711.712 and 721 preferably are as covered folding seams with in each case two seam lines ausgebildet.

Fig. a haibschematisch represented increased Draußicht of a material range 80 with a multiplicity of points of bonding agent distributed evenly on it 81 shows 8; these are e.g. in form of a sample out against each other transferred point rows are arranged and with (not-represented) a transmission sheet applied, which carries the points of bonding agent on its for the material 80 turned side, with this side on the material put and for the transmission of the points of bonding agent Druckund temperature conditions suitable for prefixing suspended. A typical Ülbertragungsblatt, e.g. with a preferential bonding agent on basis of Copolyamid, possesses about 20-30 points of bonding agent 81 per cm2, which corresponds to about 20-30 g bonding agents per m2 of the occupied side of the sheet. The points of bonding agent on the 12bertragungsblatt are practically circular, have middle diameters of approximately 1 mm and a middle thickness from approximately 0.06 to 0.08 mm. With the Übcrtragung of the sheet on the material the points can become larger somewhat, e.g. on approximately 1.2 mm, and a further increase of the diameter of the points, e.g. on something 1.3 mm, can result in the case of the formation of the two-position material group, i.e. if the material combines 80 under pressure and heat with a second drinking situation wird.

4s as consequence have the points of bonding agent, which combine the two fabric plies to the group, in this example thicknesses of approximately 50 Mikrometer.

You Fig. 9A, 9B and 9C show halfschematic perspektivisehe representations of the appearance of samples with the test so of the draping characteristics of materials, material bond layers and Haftbzw. Sticking means. For the test of a given material a practically regularly formed sample becomes (e.g.

squarely or circular) cut. Square pieces of sample with edge lengths of 10-15 cm or kreisförss mige samples with a diameter within this range are suitable for most materials interesting here. The sample is put to a cylindrical Holzstab practically in the surface center 911.921, 931 of their lower surface on the upper front surface (not-represented) of a staff, e.g. with a front surface by approximately 25-100 mm2, and fastened gewünschtenfalls with a needle or with adhesive on it. If a given sample remains practically flat in this arrangement, d.h.

not by their dead weight to a sample shape similarly one the Fig. 9A, 9B or 9C deformed, the surface of the sample can know is increased or the edges of the samples by small weights burdening werden.

A sample from a rigid or halfrigid flexible material essentially takes with this test in Fig. 9A 625,107 form shown on: it has then a practically straight (neither curved nor broken) first Mantellinie 910, while a second Mantellinie 915, which runs perpendicularly to the first Mantellinie 910, is curved. The first, straight Mantellinie 910 of a sample 91 from steep or halfrigid material does not have as in Fig. 9A represented parallel to a pair of edges of the sample lie, but can run also from a sample corner to the diagonally facing corner. In each case a vergleichweise steep material forms a “tunnel-like” specimen shape with a practically straight crown. With lo loading the edges of the sample 91 cut by the crown 910 the tunnel “originally turns”, i.e. those down, i.e. before loading, curved Mantellinie 915 becomes sudden the straight Manteloder crown of the “turned down” sample 91, and the originally straight Seheitellinie 9-1Õ becomes just as sudden the curved ManteUinie of the turned down Probe.

In the case of use of a typical rigid or halfrigid material, like paper, it shows up that a comparatively large Kraft is erfodich, in order to bend the straight crown 910 for the sample 91, if the sample is prevented from turning down e.g. by holding the Kante.<br cut by the curved line/> In the front part of a jacket this was felt as unwanted resistance of the jacket against body movements, like bends, and the jacket would not have high Tragkomfort.

A sample for the purposes of the available description, which the tunnel form of Fig, becomes corresponding. 9A for the examination of a bonding agent can conception of the world-end either an accordingly thin layer from this or one on one carriers continuously or intermittent distributed bonding agent layer to be used • bonding agent, those with use in connected layer for the compound material to its reinforcement (sample behavior in accordance with Fig. 9A would lead), can perhaps nevertheless be used, if an even, but diskontinuiediche distribution of this bonding agent at the boundary surface of the group results in a drapable structured compound material sample and/or if with testing on one on his part from tent-forming substrate one conception of the world-ends such a distribution sample erBbt.

Example 1 from easy Wollköperstoff of approximately 280 g/mz was manufactured a jacket, those essentially the Fig. corresponded to 6 un 7. For the production of the compound front parts first a pair was cut by essentially identical pieces of material for the left front part 602. The back one of these pieces became with bonding agent as in Fig. 8 shown (thermoplastic adhesives from Copolyamid; 25 g/m2) using a transmission sheet provide, so that the entire back of this piece of material with evenly prefixed points of bonding agent distributed on it was occupied. The two cut pieces for the left front part and a cut left side part 604 consisting of the same Wollkörperstoff became after in Fig. 3A represented kind stacked, so that the backs of the pieces of front part accepts the exterior surfaces and with the 30 of the pile formed and the Seitentcilstück for the deformation of the straight crown between them lag.

at turning prevented sample down a substantial WiderDie rear edges of the pieces of front part and the front opposes, as criterion for a rigid or halbsteires material respected, that stood practically neither drapable nor schmiegsam ist.

As opposite extreme case a drapable or schmiegsames material shows a “tent formation” instead of the descriptive tunnel formation. Fig. 9C shows such “tent screen end” a sample 93. This sample shape is characterized by the fact that practically all lines 930, 935 of a sample edge or - hits a corner by the center 931 to the opposite edge or corner neither practically straight nor curved, but broken (diskontinuiedich curved) is and that the sample shows several foldings 933. For the available purpose characterizes a tent screen end a sample a drapable material, however practically no structuring effect hat.

A drapable structured material points ideally to Fig. 9B represented sample shape, i.e. this sample 92 does not point straight, but essentially only curved lines of one point of edge of the sample by the sample center to the opposite point of edge. A first “crown” 920 can be less curved thereby somewhat than the second crown normal in addition 925, and a certain inclination to turning the sample down and/or a small folding beginning can be determined; it participates important that the sample 92 prevented from turning down curving bzw.

bending opposes working deformation of its crown no significant resistance. Such a material essentially neither tent-forming nor tunnel-forming is, and a jacket front part with these characteristics knows the jacket a high carrying comfort and nevertheless structure and/or a Fasson geben.

The simple test described above knows (A) for the selection of suitable materials for the compound front parts and the dorsale connecting portion, (B) for the selection of suitable bonding agents and detention parameter (thickness of the layer of adhesive, distribution and size of the points of sticking, etc.) and (C) for testing the Verbundmateriais dienen.

Edge of the piece of side part were sewn in the register for the education of the tie-in weld (left side seam). Then the two pieces of front part of the lower end became with one another along the Sanmkanten the formation of the seam seam and along the front edges the formation of the front edge seam up to the upper end of the written undertaking edge vernäht.

In such a way received arrangement by unvernäht remained range turned and into a heated press put the turned arrangement. Thus the two pieces of front part at their boundary surface were connected by fusion sticking and the interiorsewn seam edge, the interiorsewn front trailing edge including the written undertaking part and the interiorsewn side seam as connection of the compound front part with that of it laterally abragenden link side part gebildet.

The right front part with abragendem right side part was made in similar way of same Wollköperstoff. Then the two compound front parts with the associated side parts were converted in actually usual way to a jacket. The sleeves were fed, while Vorderund remained ungefüttert the side parts. The back portion became with a shoulder fodder versehen.

In such a way received jacket had a responding structured feature and Fasson. although the compound front parts did not contain FormeinIagen. There the front part insides of the Wollköper Oberstoff consisted, also the opened unfold jacket a very elegant Aussehen.<br showed/> The carrying characteristics of the jacket were extraordinarily good. The two drapable structured front parts from the doubling off group with the freely drapable dorsalen portion from a single fabric ply lent to the jacket a carrying comfort and a soft grip traction, how it and/or it is characteristic of PulIover jackets, but connected with a generally fassonierten (nichtlappenden) appearance. The sealed, but nevertheless drapable structure front part from adhäsivcm material bonding material as reason for these favourable characteristics of the jacket is regarded and offers opposite the well-known unstructured jackets the advantage of a more strongly fassonierten (fewer informal) feature with undiminished carrying comfort. The material compound structure of the front parts offers furthermore a comparatively substantially better appearance with regarding the aufgesehlagenen jacket opposite conventional struktuierten jackets, with which the reinforcement inserts of the front parts must be verdeekt by a generally loose interior fodder, looks responding less than the inside of the Stoffverbundes.

Example 2 the behavior of samples of a material with above in connection with the Fig. 9A, 9B and 9C test shown had been examined with pieces of sample from material single situations and made of two-position bonding material, soft by bonding agent group from a Stoffiagenpaar were. As bonding agent fusionsticking PP in the point sample distribution of Fig became. 8 verwendet.

The following textile materials with (in each case referred to the single situation) the weight per unit areas (fG, in g/m2) were tested in each case as Einzellagc and as sticking compound double situation: Fleece wool (caper yarn or comb yarn) with fG 200, 300, 270, 180, 320, 310, 335, 275,230; 45% wool 55% polyester with fG 200 and 190; 100% silk with fG 210; 100% Kashmir with fG 235; 75% polyester 25% silk with fG 215; % wool 25% Mohair with fG 200; 100% polyester (“Crimplene”) with fG 255; Art game leather (“Alcantara”) with fG 190; 55% polyester 25% Angora/20% wool with fG 170; 75% polyester 25% cotton with fG 140; 88% Wolle/12% camel hair with fG 290; 97% Viscoserayon/3% silk with fG 160; 65% Lambswool/35% wool with fG 200.

The single position samples generally showed one between the specimen shapes of Fig. 9C and 9B lying shape, while the appropriate compound pieces from stuck together with one another the two layers one generally between the sample forms of Fig. 9A and 9B and/or 9B and 9C lying shape 625,107 showed. In each case the two-layered sample was more structured in significant way than the appropriate Einzellage.

Example 3 it jackets with front parts from two-position compound material and dorsalen portions made of single fabric ply after the function with the alteration, described in example 1 that upper materials of the kind described in example 2 were used. Jackets with improved Traglo comfort - compared to similar jackets, their fed front parts in usual way were provided with form inserts - and improved structure - compared to similar sweater jackets - became erhalten.

Additionally to the favourable combination of high carrying comfort with generally good fassoniertem appearance the invention offers considerable advantages in technical regard: In the case of the comparison of the number of the stations, which are necessary for the technical Konfektionsfertigung of conventional jackets with similarly structured and/or fassoniertem appearance due to form inserts in the jacket front parts, with the jackets necessary station number according to invention for the production results with usual production lines a reduction around approx. 50% (74 stations in relation to 41 stations); the expenditure of manufacture-technical fate and of production time is substantial with the production of the jackets according to invention geringer.

Additionally for the advantage that the front parts of pieces of clothing according to invention need neither form inserts still another fodder material edition, it can be obtained further advantages by combination of different material types and/or differently colored materials for the Colonel off situations (including art game leathers) of the compound front parts. Furthermore the Struktuñerungseffekt of the compound front parts can be affected by use of different fabric plies of the group and/or by kind, quantity and distribution of the bonding agent. The optimizations for the individual combinations can with the help of the test described above reached werden.

s 3 sheet designs of 625107 3 pages No. 1 16 1! 2,120,122 Fig. lB 253 B 225,110,220 21 Fig. lC f° 215,210 ù/221 Fig. 2A 22O 22 F/g. 2B Fig. 3A